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Buying a New or Old Car

Your Decision

Budget

Right Car

New or Used Car

New Car

Get ready for test drive

Test Drive

Check point of Test Drive

Car Pricing

Financial Preparation

The Deal

Possession
Your Decision
Do I really need a car?
          Cars are not investments they are depreciating assets. On average, all vehicles depreciate more than 20% of their value in the first year. Some vehicles get depreciated as much as 40%. The second year isn't much better, as they disintegrate another 15% or so in value. If you paid $20,000 for a new car, then after two years of driving, it may be worth $13,000 and you lose $7,000 by way of depreciation. The average age of cars in the United States is somewhere between seven and eight years. Since most families have two or more of them, this means we end up buying one every three or four year.
Ask yourself these two questions each time you are considering a vehicle purchase:
  • Do I really need to change my vehicle?
  • Why do I feel I need to change my vehicle?
Answer them sincerely, each time, and you will come away with a much better understanding of what your needs really are. If after this you decide you need a car, decide your budget.
Budget

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          Price of car can range from less than $10,000 to more than $500,000. A method of financing the purchase is as important as the choice of the vehicle itself.
          With the large costs associated with purchasing a vehicle, be it new, used, leased, or financed, it is best to set up a budget for these costs. Budgeting is important because the costs associated with owning or leasing a vehicle don't end when the vehicle is delivered or the loan is paid off. In fact, possession is just one phase of the car cost cycle.
          Costs, including repair and maintenance, gas, insurance, plates, taxes, and registration, can all add up very quickly. The issue of affordability must be examined both at purchase and over the life of the vehicle.
          How can life-of-the-vehicle costs be minimized? Take the example of a car buyer who has a teenage driver. In this case insurance certainly becomes an issue. Sure, that coupe looks sporty, feels sporty, and probably is sporty, but what are the annual insurance premiums compared to the family sedan that may even cost a few more dollars at the dealer's door? A simple phone call to your insurance agent may just save you from the car cash coffin down the road.
          You may want to spend a few moments using your calculator to do some simple calculations on assets and liabilities and find out how much can I afford. You may also want to avail yourself of other resources. For instance, you could call your banker, and ask him how much money he would be willing to loan you for a vehicle. That decision will be based on a lot of factors, net worth and your credit history. Consider things like - If you get the anti-theft system installed, will your insurance agent give you a break on premiums?
Finding the right car

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          The average new car Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price today is around $20,000. It is important to choose your car or have a good idea of the car that you want for yourself. You don't want to be sold a vehicle by a salesperson you've known all of three hours. Instead, you want to purchase the vehicle you've already picked out yourself, preferably in the comfort and convenience of your own home. As a consumer you should compare vehicle features within a segment. That is, look at what Ford's full-sized pickup has to offer compared to that of Chrysler, GM, Toyota, Nissan, and all the other entries in that vehicle niche.
Category of cars
Sub/Compact
          Small cars, usually in the low end of the manufacturer's pricing scheme. This group includes such vehicles as the Dodge Neon, the Chevrolet Cavalier, Saturn, and the Ford Escort. Most have high fuel efficiency, high revolution, 4-cylinder engine, and a front-wheel drive power train. They come in two- and four-doors, and may come in hatchback or station wagon versions.
Family sedan or station wagon
          Family sedans have four doors. The vehicles include such models as the Chrysler Cirrus, the Ford Contour, the Chevrolet Malibu, the Pontiac Bonneville and the Chevrolet Lumina.
Sports Car
          Like the family sedan, sports cars come in almost every shape and size, not to mention every price category. A few of these vehicles are marketed strictly for the sports car market, like the Chevrolet Camaro and the Ford Mustang.
          Generally sports car means a bigger engine, giving the car more power, and a stiffer steering and suspension system. There may also be various body enhancements, to create a styling look like the Ford Taurus SHO and the Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. The sports car segment has always had "enthusiasts," and the manufacturers have not forgotten this market either. In addition to the Muscle Cars they sell vehicles such as the Dodge Viper, Mazda Miata, Mercedes convertible and BMW Z3.
Minivan
          Chrysler Corporation basically invented this market with the introduction of the Plymouth Voyager and Dodge Caravan. Vehicles such as the Ford Windstar, the Oldsmobile Silhouette, and the Chevrolet Venture have cut into Chrysler's stronghold on this market, but they have by no means broken it. The vehicles that have become a hit with consumers in the market are almost exclusively front wheel drive, short-hooded, have separate front seats styled like captain's chairs, one or more sliding side doors, a rear lift gate, and back seats that can be moved into multiple configurations. Versatility and ease-of-use have been two of their strongest selling features, as they can transport a family of seven on vacation or haul that 4x8 sheet of plywood for some home renovations.
Sport Utility Vehicle
          Because of the unique sales and profitability of domestic vehicles such as the Ford Explorer, the Jeep Grand Cherokee, and the Chevrolet Blazer, nearly every auto maker has entered the sport utility. There are now sub-segments within this market corner. Luxury brands now sell them: Lexus, Mercedes-Benz, Lincoln, Oldsmobile, Infinity and soon even Cadillac. These entries in the sports utility vehicle market are generally priced near or above $30,000. The sports utility vehicle segment has a low end as well -- "jeep-like" smaller-size products such as the Toyota Rav 4. The large SUV market has been the last to be fully explored, for many years the Chevrolet Suburban stood alone. Today, Ford has joined the "Big Ute" fray with its Expedition.
Pickup Truck
          Just, as with the sport utility vehicle, these trucks have become increasingly popular in the last 20 years. In fact, they are so popular that several makers will produce over 1 million of these vehicles in a year, and they grab several spots in the list of the ten top-selling vehicles in America. Pickup trucks today are far different vehicles from what they were just ten years ago, many come with enough amenities to be considered near-luxury vehicles. The auto manufacturers have also seen fit to equip some as if they were rolling offices, complete with cellular phones and laptop computer storage. Like the sport utilities, they have divided and segmented the market into size and price groupings.
Market Segment
Full size like Ford's F-150, Dodge's Ram, and GM's CK
Medium size like Dodge Dakota, and Toyota T-100
Small size like Ford Ranger, and Chevrolet S-10.
          The price groupings fall into the same basic categories and follow the same basic structure as the size groups: high-end, midrange, and low-end. The manufacturers make available an endless supply of option packages, so you may have a small size pickup with big price tags; for instance, the Ford Splash is a decked-out Ranger.
Full Size Van or Conversion Van
          Some full size van have seating for 12, lot of airport shuttle services use these to move passengers and luggage to and from the airport. This vehicle group includes such entries as the Ford Econoline Van, the Dodge Ram Van, and the GMC Savannah. The domestic nameplates much own this segment.
Luxury Sedan
          Some people call them "land yachts," but in today's market the blanket statement about luxury having to be big is no longer true. Yes, the manufacturers still turn out the land yachts like Lincoln Towne Car, Chrysler LHS but they also make the Lincoln Mark 8 and the Cadillac Eldorado, not to mention a host of other entries from the import manufacturers into this "sport luxury sedan" market. Generally speaking, a vehicle in the Luxury Sedan market sells for over $35,000 at retail. A lot of manufacturers are now producing vehicles in what has become to be known as the "near luxury" market. These are vehicles that are the high end of a high-production nameplate line, such as Oldsmobile Aurora, Mazda Millennium, and Toyota Avalon. Cars in this segment sell for $30,000 to $40,000.

Ask these questions to support your decision

  • How many miles a year do you think you're going to put on this vehicle?
  • How much time, on average, per day, will you be spending in the vehicle?
  • What type of driving will the vehicle be used for?
  • Write down all the reasons that you want and need this vehicle & analyze.
New or Used Car

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          It used to be true that only a master negotiator could navigate the shark-infested waters of used car salesmen. However, the used market has recently opened itself up, in rather dramatic fashion.
Differences between the new- and used-car markets
           Probably the most notable one from a pricing standpoint is that used cars are not as commodity-driven as the new vehicle market. This means that a new car buyer is best served by playing identical-make dealers off each other, kind of like bargaining with four grocers. On the other hand, in the used market, it's nearly impossible to play the grocery stores against each other.
          When you buy used car, you are taking on more risk. Certainly it is possible to buy a new vehicle that is bad one, but there are laws to protect you if this happens. In the used market, the law is vague at best. A used vehicle is full of risk, because you are buying "as is," often without any manufacturer to back up the vehicle with a warranty. With more assumed risk, the investor generally expects a greater potential reward. Buyers of used cars are, partly for this reason, entitled to expect a lower initial cost.
          What does it mean -- that the new vehicle market is a commodity market? It means that it is essentially a supply-and-demand-controlled market. When vehicles are in short supply prices tend to go up, and vice versa. The game is far more complex than that, but any offhand look at incentives that the auto manufacturers offers to drive sales reveals that these price cuts are normally on vehicles that are in excess supply.
          In the last few years, though, the used car market has been increasing, price-wise, ahead of those in the new car market. It may be that used car prices were low to start with, but many experts feel that it is a question of supply and demand in the market. The reasoning goes that used car prices have risen sharply because of high cost of new car prices.
          Over & above, durable and more reliable new cars have created a supply shortage in the used car market. Many experts now feel that the trend will reverse itself, particularly when coupled with a large volume of off lease vehicles returning to the Used car market. In addition, higher incentives on the new car market are expected to create less demand for used vehicles.

Ask your Self

Are you a perceptive negotiator? Can you rapidly determine real value?
Do you love vehicle shopping? Are you mechanically sound or know such an individual?
If you answers are No to one or all of these questions, and can't afford a new vehicle, you need not try just yet.
New Car

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           Now that you know you are going to buy a new car and you also know the category that you want, narrow down to three specific makes and models within that category. For example, if you are looking at sport utility vehicles, your field of three makes and models might include a Dodge Durango, Chevy Blazer, and the Suzuki Sidekick. It is important here to diversify your choices amongst the makes as much as possible, but you may like two entries from a particular manufacturer that fit the bill as distinct models. In this case your three choices may appear as, the Ford Explorer, Ford Expedition, and Isuzu Rodeo.
          Your three choices should not include vehicles that are the same make and model but with differing option packages. In other words if your list ends up with the Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Limited Edition, Ford Explorer AWD, and the Mercury Mountaineer AWD, you need to reevaluate your choices. These are all Ford vehicles of the same model and only differ in the amount of installed options.
Get Ready to Test Drive

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          With your top two or three choices written down on a clean sheet of paper, you're now ready for the test drive.
          First, try not to purchase any vehicle during the test drive phase, no matter what earth-stopping deal is fanned in front of you. By virtue of the fact that you are the buyer, you have the upper hand. It is not something you want to give up during the test drive. Thus, say very little about yourself, your financial position, and most of all, remain outwardly neutral to any enthusiasm you have for the vehicle you're driving. Top salespeople are expert at extracting information from even the most quiet buyers, as they try to prepare you.
          One of the best ways to keep the upper hand is to arrange an appointment with the dealership ahead of time for a vehicle test drive. It is important here that you arrange to drive the specific vehicle you want with respect to main features. Cosmetic differences don't mean a thing at this point. In other words, don't worry if he doesn't have the black seats. Do worry about main features that may have several options, such as engine and transmission. Even leather seats should be considered as a main feature in that they give a particular "feel" that you might be looking for.
          Only accept an appointment to test drive your main featured car of choice and be careful about driving one with a more features than you listed. Don't lose sight of the fact that you are in control, you are the customer. Remember too that new vehicles are commodities, the dealer ten minutes down the road has the same thing on the lot, so if you don't like what you hear, move on. Give yourself about one and half-hours for each test drive, which allows you time to watch the salesperson's demonstration of the car's features, to drive it and to check out the dealership. Collect all the data and write down your impressions.
Test Drive

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          Car salespeople are in the business of selling cars. They spend a lot of time with the customer persuading them, trying to figure out if you’re a real buyer, what sort of buyer, and what it might take to get you to buy. They have all sorts of perspicacious clues and questions. If sales people haven't asked you within the first ten minutes on the lot if you’re a buyer, go ahead and tell them. Don’t forget your real mission is to take the test drive so you can assess the feel and functionality of the vehicle.
          Be fair and tell them your plan. "I’m committed to buying a vehicle in the near future, probably the next ten days. I won’t be buying today, but I want to see if this vehicle fits me. I have my selection narrowed down to a few vehicles, different makes, and this is one of them, so why don’t you show me this car’s features?"
          It usually takes the salesperson about 10 to 15 minutes to demonstrate a vehicle’s features while parked. Don’t drive until you’ve been shown everything at a standstill. During the "parked demo" ask questions, keep the salesperson focused on selling you the features. But never express any emotion above a pleasant acknowledgement of these features.
          Once the parked demo is complete, the salesperson might ask you if you have any questions, or if you’d like to go for a spin. Get the VIN #, usually up under the windshield on the drivers side, take down the car's mileage from the odometer, and check the manufacture date on the inside of the driver's door. This information may come in handy down the road. Next, go over to the sticker and write down everything on it. Some dealerships will give you a printout of this sticker. Go ahead and accept it, but still write down the information for yourself. Record the base model type and all the standard equipment that goes with that base. Then take down the installed options on the vehicle. Again this list can be long, and remember to include any option packages that may group several options together at a "lower" price. Put down all the options that the package contains not just the package name. Precision here is key, so take your time, and if the salespeople seem to be annoyed with this, it's a good time to suggest a coffee run. Don't forget the MSRP is a suggested price.
          Finally the time has come, and you are ready for your test drive - the salesperson will check your driving license. A number of experts advise not giving it to them, because they are just going to run a credit check. A credit check is basically harmless, and will tell the dealership that you have reasonable prospects. Your driver's license also gives the dealers a little protection insurance-wise. They don’t want the liability of you smashing up the demo and then finding out you had your license revoked six months earlier. Do not forget to collect your license after photocopying from the sales person. There is no need to give them your social security number, because the same is not required yet.
          Test drives often begin with the salesperson behind the wheel. Use this to your advantage, continue asking questions, turn the radio off, and most of all, remember that a new car test drive is very different from a used test drive. With this kind of testing you're not trying to put value on the vehicle or assess risk, instead, you’re attempting to measure its functionality.
Check point of Test Drive

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Does it feel comfortable? Are the controls easy to work, and easy to reach? Does the car accelerate well on the freeway on-ramp?
Does it have the smoothness you want? When changing lanes, do you have a large blind spot? What about putting the two year old in the child seat in the back?
          The salesperson is going to take you to the sales manager if you're not converted into a buyer, so they will almost always attempt to get you into a bargaining coop. Don’t go, or at least don’t sit down. Keep looking at your watch, and muttering something about another appointment. Generally speaking, they don’t want to let you walk at this point without some kind of offer, but don’t give them anything. If they make an offer, chances are it is what is known in the biz as a lowball. That’s an offer designed to get you back after you shop it around town and nobody else meets that. Sounds great, but the problem is that they have no intention of selling you the car at that price.
          There are a few things that you can get at this point that may help. Take each and every business card that passes before your eyes. If they make you a verbal offer, write the numbers on the back of the business card, then stick it in your pocket. In addition to the business cards, pick up every flyer, brochure, color chart, bumper sticker, videotape and other promotional material that's available for the model that you just test drove. The dealership itself may have some sort of manifesto on customer service and pricing. Take that as well, all this information can become useful at a later time.
Car Pricing

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          As we said before, that first price you run into as a consumer is the one stuck securely to the window. In simple terms, as a consumer, the first thing you should do when you see the sticker price is, remember it and then promptly forget it. That's right cast that manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP) from your head. Why? Well, it's hardly worth the paper it is printed on; it is, after all, a figure the manufacturer has manufactured. In other words, it's nearly arbitrary. As a rule never bargain or negotiate pricing from the MSRP.
          With no true point of reference to work from with regard to actual cost, consumers are forced to look to other means in order to figure the right price. We already know that the MSRP is not a viable starting point, so we turn our gaze next to the manufacturer's invoice price. This price is not related to cost, but it is more realistic when taken in the context of the supply-and-demand economic factors in the marketplace than the MSRP. The Invoice Price in its simplest terms is what the manufacturers charge the franchise dealerships when they ship the vehicle to them.
          The great thing about the Invoice Price is that we as consumers can easily determine it. Yes, just click onto one of the many Internet Car Buying Pricing Guides like Edmund's and you can get a listing of just about any make and model's Invoice Price. Of course, these invoice prices are for base models, but don't fret. These web sites also have manufacturer-installed option equipment prices
          Here's how the system works. First, the manufacturer ships and sells the dealer a vehicle at the listed invoice price. Then, after the dealer sells the vehicle to a consumer, the manufacturer takes a certain percentage of that vehicle price and puts it in a kitty for that particular dealer. The percentage that is put into the kitty is dependent on the agreement the manufacturer has with the dealer franchise network, but it is not dependent on the model or the number of models sold by the dealer. At the end of the quarter the manufacturer clears out each dealer's holdback kitty, sending him or her check for the total amount. In reality, it provides the dealerships with a two-invoice system, one to show the consumer, as in the one-cent-over-invoice sale, and the other to make the profit they need as a business.
          Some consumers have caught onto the holdback and claimed part of it as their own. So the manufacturers have put another profit card up the dealer's sleeve the Manufacturer to Dealer Incentive. It is super-secret and is guarded by the dealers as if it were the fifth outstanding up their sleeves. From time to time this type of incentive can become rather large, particularly on slow-moving luxury cars as much as $4,000 to $6,000 for the dealer. Again, a consumer can use the buying guides to determine what, if any, manufacturer-to-dealer incentives are being offered on the makes and models they have chosen.
          What about those "rebates" we always see in the media? Customer incentives can vary by sales region, can have special circumstances such as the oft-seen low finance rate option in lieu of cash, and can even be offered to specific groups of buyers. Thus, once again the consumer is best served by checking several sources for these incentives and since they are ever changing, by ensuring that the source of information is up-to-date. The web pricing guides such as Edmund's, CarPoint, Autosite and CarPrices and the buying services can be a big help.
          For each vehicle list the manufacturer's invoice price, then add to the option invoice prices that you want. Next, add up these figures to give yourself a total manufacturer's invoice price for your particular vehicle. Remember to watch out for midyear manufacturer price increases! Now subtract out any and all incentives that are available on the vehicle like Customer, Dealer, and Holdbacks. After getting a total, add in the delivery charge, giving a grand total price. This is our baseline price. Will you be able to get the vehicle for the baseline price? The answer is a resounding NO! Why? Well, for one, we haven't considered items such as taxes and dealer profits. But the power of the baseline price is that it provides a baseline from which to make an informed decision with regard to which vehicle you choose and for negotiating a final price on that vehicle. That is, it gives the best-case scenario that you can come up with as to how these vehicles can be compared on price.
Financial Preparation

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Negotiate the price of the new car Value the trade-in vehicle Arrange financing/leasing
           Leasing has become extremely popular in the new vehicle market. More than 30% of new vehicle consumers now are leased. Dealer-arranged financing is probably not in your best interest. Dealerships make a great deal of their money on what is known as Back End business. A portion of back end profit comes from arranging the financing for the vehicles that customers have purchased. Dealer agreements with financing institutions are often structured so that the higher interest rate a dealer can get you to accept, the more money they make off the deal. This portion of a dealer's business is summed up in just one word "lucrative".
          You would be best served by lining up financing before buying the vehicle. Why spend hours test-driving, pricing and buying a new vehicle, only to turn around and hand back to the dealer all that you just saved? Go to the phone and call various lending institutions. Start with your own bank and see what kind of terms they offer. Use your budget as a guide. This helps determine the affordability of the down payment and of the monthly payments. Most lending institutions have a minimum down payment as a fence against the rapid depreciation.
          Another financial preparation many consumers fail to perform is the inevitable insurance question. As with loans, a great place to start is with someone you already know. Give him or her the exact listing of the vehicle you are planning to purchase, so that you can be given a quote on just what your insurance costs will be.
The Deal

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          The best way to negotiate a new vehicle deal is to stay out of the dealerships. Staying away keeps you in control of the negotiation process and gives you your most effective tool in new car negotiations. Next you need the fax numbers of all the dealers within 100 miles of you that sell your #1 vehicle choice.
          Next you need to create a detailed listing of your vehicle on a single sheet of paper. You've already worked up a detailed list of base vehicle and options. But it may be best to use your Baseline Price. That's the way you have your own pricing calculations at your fingertips once the responses start rolling in.
          Dealers works better with personal touch. Also let them know you're a serious buyer by saying "I'm looking to buy a new car this week." Also, since it's to your advantage to put a time limit on the bidding process you might add something like "Over the next three days, I'll be taking bids." Make it a reasonable amount of time; if you say "I'll give you three hours to respond" then you're asking to have zero responses. Notice also the word "bid" -- this lets the dealer know you're shopping your dream vehicle around town.
          More than likely the fax bids will start rolling in after 24 hours or so. Some of these bids will not be bids at all; instead, they will be a nice little form letter inviting you to "Come on down" to the best dealership on the planet where they will be happy to beat any bid you have. Ignore these. As the real bids with real numbers start to come in, look each one over closely. Sometimes a dealer will leave off a thing or two from your model listing. Obviously, when they forget to include a retractable sunroof, and a trunk-mounted 15-CD changer, the price of the vehicle is going to be a few dollars lower.
          The bids that are exactly as you requested are the ones you would consider to start with. After the bidding period is over line up all the bids by price, arranged from lowest to highest. You may be astonished at the variations in these prices, particularly given the fact that they are all for the same car. Now pull out your baseline price, so that you can see how the bids look beside your pricing research.
          More often they are not, you'll find yourself with a host of bids that are below MSRP but still some distance from your baseline price. Perhaps by adding and subtracting the various extras or missed items you find a bid that is near the line drawn by your baseline price. Create your 100- to 200-mile dealership listing now.
          For this second listing of dealers, use the same cover letter, only add "Can you beat $xyz.00 price". Be honest here, put down the best price you've received, or use the low bid that had something missing, but add in the invoice price of the missing options.
          If you have bids that you're comfortable with, when viewed against the baseline price, then it is time to take the best two bids and begin negotiating. To do this, lay the best two bids out in front of you, call the second highest bid and talk to the person that sent you the fax. Make a firm offer to buy the car at a price, say $500 below the lowest bid. If they accept, then request that they immediately fax such a bid to you and arrange for a paperwork session and a delivery time. If instead they counter with a slightly higher price, say thank you and immediately hang up. At this point you're next move is to call the best bid dealer and congratulate them on winning your business.
          You can also call-up "Consumer Awareness" a magazine who research a lot in all new cars including it's price. By paying few dollars, you can get full report of the performance of the car including its baseline price.
Possession

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          Set a specific date and time to take delivery of the vehicle. Don't sign anything formal yet; a small deposit may be necessary, as well as a signature on the bid price agreement. It is important that you read and understand all the paperwork that you will be required to sign. If your deal involves any calculations, check them yourself. You'd be surprised how many errors are made in lease and loan calculations.
          At delivery, we suggest you use a Checklist to help you through this process. You should expect the vehicle to be fully demonstrated to you, even more in-depth than on your test-drive. Each and every feature should be gone over in detail. You should also take a brief drive in the vehicle to check out the derivability of this specific vehicle. The best dealerships may even introduce you to your service manager, who will walk you through warranty and maintenance matters for your vehicle, even inviting you back for a free checkup after so many days of ownership.
Useful Links

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DebtWizards.Com - A great FREE consumer advocate site with info on how to establish, maintain, repair your credit, debt consolidation, home, auto loans, college student warnings, 'Credit Doctor' scams, all about Credit Cards, handling harassing collection agencies.
AutoBuyingTips.Com - A great source to look up dealer invoice pricing on cars, get a no hassle low price quote, apply for a car loan through several banks, get free auto insurance quotes from the major companies, free extended warranty quotes, buyer's tips, automotive links.


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